الگوهایی جدید برای دوخت کیفهای چرمدوزی

۸ مطلب در شهریور ۱۳۹۴ ثبت شده است

کیف چرمی جدید

Picture of Leather Satchel / Bag

 

Picture of Tools & Materials

 

 

 

Picture of Pattern, Marking & Cutting
 
 
 
Picture of Slots & Grooves

 

Picture of Inside Divider & Pocket
 
 
 
Picture of Lacing Strap & Decoration
 
 
 

 

Picture of Handle
 
 
Picture of Lacing
 
 
 
Picture of Shoulder Strap
 
 
Picture of Stand Back and Admire Your Work
 
۱۵ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۰:۰۶ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
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آدرس فایل پی دی اف برای الگوهای کیف چرم دوزی

از آدرس زیر می توانید فایل پی دی اف الگوی کیفهایی را که عکس آنها در سایت هست را بگیرید

 

http://www.instructables.com/id/No-sew-Perfect-Purse/?ALLSTEPS

مثلا فایل پی دی اف همین کیف را از آدرس زیر بگیرید

http://www.instructables.com/files/orig/FRH/KA9P/IRV6354X/FRHKA9PIRV6354X.pdf

 

 

 

 

 

Picture of No-sew Perfect Purse

 
 
Picture of Step 1 : Pattern
 
 
Picture of Step 2 : Cut Leather

 

 

 

Picture of Step 3: Punch Holes

.Picture of Step 4: Interior pouch

 
Picture of Step 5: Closure

Picture of Step 6: Install closure

 
 
Picture of Step 7: Rivet sides of purse

 

Picture of Step: 8 Tabs/strap

 

۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۳:۱۸ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
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آموزش کیف دیپلمات

Leather Briefcase (Covert Edition)

 

از سختی کار نترسید

با تمرین بهتر از این را هم می توانید تولید کنید

به آرامش هنگام کار و لذت پایان کار فکر کنید

توضیحات بیشتر را از این سایت بگیرید

http://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-Briefcase/?ALLSTEPS

Picture of Leather Briefcase (Covert Edition)

 

Picture of Design
 
Picture of Dye, Mark, and cut

Step 4: Make the Handle

Picture of Make the Handle
 
 
 
 
 
At this point you can line the back, bottom and sides of your bag.  I usually wait to line the front so I can get everything fitting perfectly to add the tuck catches to close the bag.  It's not necessary to line the bag if you don't want to.  You can also do a cloth liner but I don't like to because it usually wears out in a year or two.

Step 9: Attach back, bottom and sides

Picture of Attach back, bottom and sides
 
 
 
 
 
Picture of Add tuck catches
 
 
 
Picture of Attach front and stitch
 

Step 12: Make false bottom

Picture of Make false bottom
 
 
 
Picture of Make your strap
 

Step 14: Finish!

Now all you have to do is put a finish on your bag.  I sometimes use neat's foot oil, mink oil or you can just use a high quality neutral shoe wax.  It's just like waxing your car.  Put a small amount on to a clean lint free rag and rub it in.  Let it dry for a few minutes and buff it off with another clean rag.  Don't leave it on too long
۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۳:۰۴ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
کار در خانه

کفش چرمی با الگوی ساده

Picture of Show Me The Way : Sandals
 
 
 
 
Picture of Tools and Materials
 
 
Picture of Cutting the Sole
 
 
Picture of Cleaning Up the Sole
 
 
Picture of Sticking the Foam Upper
 
Picture of Prepping the Leather Straps
 
Picture of Adding the First Strap

Step 7: Adding the Second Strap

Picture of Adding the Second Strap
_DSC0034.JPG
 
 
Picture of Sewing in the Back Strap
 
 
Picture of Sticking the LED Light Strip
 
 
 
Picture of Conclusion
۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۲:۴۳ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
کار در خانه

الگوی دوخت روکش فرمان چرمی

Picture of Make A Leather Steering Wheel Cover!
 
 
 
Picture of Cutting the Leather
 
 
 
Picture of Sewing the Leather Cover

apart.

Step 3: Trimming the Leather strips

Picture of Trimming the Leather strips

 

 

 

Picture of Sewing the Cover onto the Wheel


Picture of Finished!
۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۲:۲۶ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
کار در خانه

آموزش کفش نوزادی چرمی

Picture of Make Leather Baby Shoes (Mary Janes For A Baby Girl)
MaryJaneShoePattern_instructables_scaled.jpg
Picture of Choose a Piece of Leather
Picture of Stitch the Ends of the Shoe Tops
 
 
Picture of Sew the Tops to the Soles
 use the contact cement. Something to keep in mind is that because you are taking 2 pieces that are 1 dimensional (flat) and making them 3 dimensional, you will have to fudge it a little as you go along glueing the edges.

I recommend starting with a little bit of contact cement at the front of the shoe, pressing the two pieces together and do a little at a time (I've marked the front of the top and sole on a the template with a line to help with this). This way you can make adjustments as you go along and if it gets a little off by the end it's okay since it's the back end. ;) Make sure as you are doing this that you don't use two much contact cement because if you go wider than what your seam will be there will be visible contact cement when you flip the shoe inside out.

After attaching both shoes, let it dry a little then take it to your sewing machine. Because I laser cut mine and the laser burns the end of the leather so it doesn't fray, I didn't want a large seam and stitched mine close to the edge (that's what the second line on the pattern is for). With a large seam you will have to trim some of the excess leather off. You can stitch yours however you want but just keep in mind that the further away from the edge you get, the smaller the shoe will be in the end.

After you are done stitching flip the shoes right side out and admire your progress (your making shoes!).

Step 5: Add the Straps

Now you need to add the straps to the Mary Janes. You have a few different options for this and don't need to use the straps I designed. You can stitch an elastic band or add some ribbon or use plastic snaps and buttons. Whatever it is make sure however you attach it there's nothing sticking out on the inside and nothing that can be bitten off. I went with double cap rivets and segma snaps because they would be permanent and I installed them in a way so that they are smooth and flat on the inside. This is probably much more heavy duty than needed on baby shoes that will be worn very briefly so I probably won't do that if I ever make baby shoes again.

Step 6: All Done!

Take a step back and admire what you've done. If they're a little messy don't worry about it-- they're handmade. And the very small human that will be wearing these probably won't mind. ;)

۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۲:۱۸ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
کار در خانه

یک کیف با توضیحات انگلیسی

قبلا توضیحات انگلیسی را حذف می کردم

اما شاید برخی بتوانند استفاده کنند

از این به بعد حذف نمی کنم

به شرطی که از آنها نترسید

به خود تصاویر توجه کنید

تقریبا می توان الگو را از خود تصاویر هم به دست آورد

 


 

Picture of 1960s Style Leather Duffel Bag

Picture of The Bits, Parts, and Pieces

 

Picture of Making the Rounds

Cut two circles (or rounds), one for each end of the bag, from the 6-7 oz leather, measuring 9" in diameter. You can use 4-5 oz leather, if you prefer. I used 6-7 oz leather to add a bit of stability to my bag. The perfect round object to use as a template is a dinner plate.

Marking and placement of the punch holes is the most critical part of this project; so please forgive me if I spend a lot of time here.

On the first leather round (smooth side up), use your awl (or nail) to very gently scribe a circle 1/2" away from the edge, all the way around. The holes that you punch for lacing will be centered on this line. Next, you will need to make marks on the line so you know how far apart each hole punch should be. Make your first small mark anywhere on the line...from this mark, measure out 1" and keep marking 1" increments all the way around the circle. The first illustration shows a drawn depiction of the first 7 marks. The second illustration shows how the round should look after the holes have been punched.

Prepare to punch the lacing holes.

Protect your working surface and the tips of your punches by placing a poly cutting board or poundo board under your leather work.

Using your mallet/maul and the #9 Craftool Oval Drive Punch, punch out the lacing holes. Note that the punch should be centered over each of the 1" cross marks you made on the circle. Note also, the direction that each oval hole is oriented. The ends of the oval shapes point toward the center of the circle.

Once you finish punching out the lacing holes on the first leather round, repeat the process on the second round. You can cheat! Put the smooth sides of the rounds together with the rough side of the first round facing up and the rough side of the second round facing the work surface. We do it this way to insure that we have to opposite rounds rather than two matching rounds. Use your awl (or nail) to gently trace the punch holes on the second round. If you use this cheating method, the two rounds must stay perfectly lined up the entire time you are tracing, or your lacing holes will be off.

When you finish, count the number of holes you punched on each circle (they should be the same)...my circle has 49 holes.

To add the Dee Rings, cut two strips from the 4-5 oz leather, measuring 3/4" x 5" each. Fold the first strip in half and using the size 6 Craftool Round Hole Drive Punch, punch two holes through the folded leather. The first hole is centered and 1/2" up from the unfolded end; the second hole is centered and up 1-1/2" from the unfolded end. Take note of the illustration for placement of the strip on the round (slightly above center). Use the strip with the holes punched to mark the holes on the round. Punch them out too. Add a 3/4" Dee Ring to the folded end of the strip and attach to the round using the Chicago Screws.

Repeat on the other round.

Step 3: The Body

Picture of The Body
 

The length of the body is really your choice. The size I chose was 15" and cut a 15" x 25" rectangle from the 4-5 oz leather. From here on out, I'll refer to the 15" as the top (or bottom) and the 25" as the long sides. Using your awl (or nail), scribe three lines; one at the top and one on each long side, 1/2" from the edge. Refer to the illustration to insure the correct orientation of the oval lacing holes. Mark the 1" increments on the long side lines of the rectangle first, starting at the top of the leather. Punch out the lacing holes on both long sides. My rounds have 49 holes, which means that each long side of the rectangle has to have 49 holes, BUT, because I want the leather to overlap, I added three more holes to the length for a total of 52 holes on each side.

On the top (or short) line that you scribed, starting on the left side, make your first mark 1/2" away from the lacing holes on the long side. Now mark 1" increments across the line. The last 1" mark should be no closer than 1/2" to the punched holes on the right side. Punch out the lacing holes. You should now have both sides and the top holes punched.

Count down to lacing hole number 50 on the long side. Using your awl or nail, scribe a bottom line from the middle of hole 50 on the left to the middle of hole 50 on the right. using the exact measurements from the top line, mark the matching lacing holes on the bottom line. Punch out the holes.

Add your 12" zipper. Measure down 6" from the top and using the dimensions of your zipper, cut a length and width from the leather that allows only the teeth and zipper pull to show. Once you are satisfied with the fit, you can add some Elmer's glue to the zipper material and glue it from the back side of the leather. Make sure the zipper is zipping in the right direction! The glue dries fairly quickly, so it is ready to sew in place. You can either sew it by hand by punching holes or by using a sewing machine that can sew through leather. I normally sew by hand since I don't have an industrial sewing machine. I use the Craftool Round Hole Drive Punch, size 00, catalog #3777-00 to punch the holes and the Craftool Spacer, size 5, catalog #8091-00, to make sure my spacing is consistent. Tandy has several choices for waxed threads (your choice) and also chisels (or pricking irons) that can be used in place of the 00 hole punch.

TIP: To help your zipper move smoothly, rub it with candle wax or beeswax.

If you want to add a pocket, cut a 7" x 10" rectangle from the 4-5 oz leather. You can use a small round object (like a jar lid) as a template to round the four corners. Mark your line around the perimeter of the pocket (1/2" away from the edge) and mark the 1" increments all the way around. Punch the lacing holes. Add the zipper, as before, 2" down from the top of the pocket. Once the lacing holes are punched, place the pocket 3" down from the 12" you zipper you just sewed on the bag, and center it. Use your awl or nail to mark the lacing holes to be punched on the bag. Punch these holes.

It's time to lace!

Step 4: Let's Start Lacing!

Picture of Let's Start Lacing!
 
Picture of Want to Make a Strap?
 
Picture of Dress Her Up and Take Her Out!
IMG_5085.JPG
۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۲:۰۴ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
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وسایل طراحی روی چرم



 

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This Basic Leathercraft kit, leatherworking set introduces people to the basics of carving,
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۰۸ شهریور ۹۴ ، ۱۱:۳۳ ۰ نظر موافقین ۰ مخالفین ۰
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